A winter garden checklist for trees and shrubs: in December, mulch roots, guard young trunks and check new plantings. In January, start dormant pruning and water if a dry spell sets in. In February, finish pruning before buds swell, then plant bare-root stock on any day above 31°F, before buds break.
This checklist comes from Tennessee Wholesale Nursery, the family-owned wholesale nursery in Altamont, Tennessee, near McMinnville, growing trees, shrubs, perennials, wetland and native plants.
Tennessee runs from about USDA zone 6 in the eastern mountains to zone 8 in the west. Use the months below as a guide: the warmer west runs earlier, and higher ground runs later.
Your winter garden checklist at a glance
| Month | Main jobs | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| December | Mulch, guard trunks, check new plantings | Deer rubbing and rodents under snow or mulch |
| January | Dormant pruning, water in dry spells | Long dry spells on unfrozen ground |
| February | Finish pruning, plant bare-root stock | Buds starting to swell |
December: mulch, guard trunks and check new plantings
December is for protection. Most woody plants have dropped their leaves and gone dormant, so the work is about keeping roots and bark safe until spring.
- Mulch the root zone. Spread wood mulch or pine needles over the roots of trees and shrubs. Keep it at least 6 inches away from the trunk, so mice and voles have no cover there.
- Put guards on young trunks. Fit wire guards on new trees before the ground freezes. The deer and rodent section below explains how.
- Walk your new plantings. Look at anything planted this fall. Firm the soil back around roots that frost has heaved up. Check that stakes and ties are holding but not cutting into bark.
- Clear broken branches. Cut away limbs snapped by wind or ice back to a healthy branch. Leave shaping for later in the winter.
January: start dormant pruning and water in dry spells
Dormant pruning means cutting back trees and shrubs while they are leafless and resting. With the leaves gone, you can see every branch, and the plant has stored energy ready for spring.
- Prune on mild days. Pick a dry day when the wood is not frozen. Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches first.
- Start with summer bloomers and shade trees. Leave spring-flowering plants alone for now. The pruning section below lists which is which.
- Water when winter turns dry. Roots still take up water in winter. If weeks pass with little rain and the ground is not frozen, give new plantings a slow, deep soak on a mild day.
- Re-check guards after snow. Deep snow lets rabbits stand higher and reach bark above a short guard.
February: finish pruning and plant bare-root stock
February is the bridge into spring. Days lengthen, and in much of Tennessee buds begin to swell by the end of the month.
- Finish pruning before buds swell. Once new growth starts, the plant's stored energy goes into leaves, and heavy cuts set it back.
- Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Our bare-root guide says to plant on days above 31°F, when the ground can be dug, and before budding begins at around 58°F. Water each plant in straight away.
- Store an early delivery cold. If the ground is frozen when your order comes, the same guide says to hold plants at 38 to 42°F, in a basement or garage, so they stay dormant.
- Mulch new plantings. Spread mulch over the roots of anything you just planted, kept back from the trunk.
What to prune in winter, and what to leave
UT Extension's guide to pruning landscape trees, shrubs and ground covers names late winter and early spring as the best time to prune, before buds swell. Not every plant fits that window, though.
- Prune now: shade trees and plants that flower after July 1, such as crape myrtle, rose-of-Sharon, butterfly bush and roses. They bloom on the current season's growth.
- Wait until after bloom: spring-flowering trees and shrubs. Winter cuts remove the buds that would flower this spring.
- Wait until the berries fade: shrubs grown for fruit, such as holly, pyracantha and nandina.
- Any time the wood is not frozen: conifers and other evergreens.
Protecting young trees from deer, rabbits and voles
Thin, smooth bark on a young tree is easy for animals to damage in winter. Iowa State University Extension's guide to protecting trees and shrubs from animal damage over winter gives these steps.
- Voles and mice: wrap the trunk in a cylinder of ¼-inch hardware cloth, a stiff wire mesh. Bury the bottom 2 to 3 inches so they cannot tunnel under it.
- Mulch: keep wood mulch at least 6 inches from the trunk.
- Deer browsing: a barrier against deer needs to be at least 6 feet tall. A shorter wire cylinder works for a small tree if it is closed over the top.
- Deer rubbing: drive three sturdy stakes around the tree, no more than 18 inches apart.
- Repellents: sprays need reapplying almost weekly, or sooner after rain or heavy snow.
Ordering bare-root stock for spring planting
Bare-root plants are dug while dormant and shipped without soil or a pot. Our bare-root information page says we ship them from September to April, while they are dormant. Each plant is dipped in Terra-Sorb gel, which holds moisture on the roots, and wrapped in packing paper.
- When to plant: on days above 31°F, and before the plants start to bud. Budding begins at around 58°F.
- If you cannot plant yet: keep them at 38 to 42°F, in a basement or garage, so they stay dormant. Small orders can stay in their bags in a refrigerator crisper.
- Planting: our planting instructions say to dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and water the plant straight away.
Winter is the time to order for that window. These trees and shrubs from our catalogue are good places to start:
- Redbud Trees, a spring bloomer, so prune it after it flowers.
- Red Oak Tree, an oak you can shape during dormant pruning.
- River Birch Tree, offered in sizes from 6 inches to 4 feet.
- Persimmon Seedlings, a fruit tree sold as young bare-root seedlings.
- American Hazelnut, a nut-bearing shrub.
- Red Osier Dogwood, a shrub sold bare-root.
Winter garden questions
How to take care of plants in winter?
For trees and shrubs, winter care comes down to four jobs. Mulch the roots, keeping mulch back from the trunk. Guard young trunks against deer and rodents. Water during dry spells when the ground is not frozen. Then prune on mild days while plants are dormant, leaving spring bloomers until after they flower.
When to plant bare-root trees?
Plant bare-root trees while they are still dormant. Our bare-root guide says to plant on days above 31°F, before the plants begin to bud at around 58°F. In Tennessee that often means late winter, on any day when the ground can be dug and is not waterlogged.
How often to water bare-root trees after planting?
Water each tree straight after planting. Our planting instructions say to add mulch or pine needles around it so the water soaks in slowly. After that, check the soil and water whenever it dries out. That includes dry spells in winter, as long as the ground is not frozen.
How long can bare-root trees survive before planting?
There is no set number of days. They last as long as they stay cold, dormant and moist. Our bare-root guide says to hold them at 38 to 42°F, such as in a basement or garage, or in their bags in a refrigerator crisper for small orders. Plant them on the first workable day, before they start to bud.
